The National Garden, between Leoforos Amalias and Irodou Attikou, south of Vas. Sofias, was once the royal family's palace garden. Now a public park, the area combines a park, a garden, and a small, rather sad zoo with shady trees, benches, and small lakes and ponds with ducks, swans, and a few peacocks. There are several cafes tucked away in the garden, and you can also picnic here. In summer 2000, the elegant Aigli cafe/restaurant reopened -- after being closed for more than a decade -- and staged a number of musical evenings. The large neoclassical exhibition/reception hall in the garden was built by the brothers Zappas and so is known as the Zappion. The garden is open daily from 7am to 10pm. Note: This is not a good place to loiter alone at night.

Mount Likavitos (Lycabettus), which dominates the northeast of the city, is a favorite retreat for Athenians and a great place to get a bird's-eye view of Athens and its environs -- if the nefos (smog) isn't too bad. Even when the nefos is bad, sunsets can be spectacular here. On top, there's a small Chapel of Ayios Yioryios (St. George), whose name-day is celebrated on April 23. Each summer, there are performances at the Lykavitos Theater here. You can take the funicular (which leaves every 20 minutes in summer) from the top of Ploutarchou (2€), or walk up from Dexameni Square, which is the route preferred by young lovers, the energetic -- and all too many who come here to dump kittens and garbage, and to use drugs.

If you find yourself heading along Leoforos Vas. Sofias, check to see whether the planned expansion of Eleftherias Park, beside Athens's handsome concert hall (the Megaron), has been completed. If so, this will be another very welcome addition to the much-needed "green lungs" of central Athens.